How to Plant Balled-and-Burlapped Trees & Shrubs Add larger plants to your garden with a little care and these easy steps.
Buying the Plant
When adding a tree, first consider
sunlight and room for growth.
Trees sold with their roots in soil wrapped in burlap tend to be larger
and more mature. These B & B (balled and burlapped) trees grow in
the ground and are dug in late winter or spring, wrapped, and shipped
to garden centers.
Sometimes the burlap-wrapped root ball is covered with a wire cage to stabilize it and make carrying easier. Although they're more difficult to handle, B & B plants generally transplant successfully. When properly cared for, they can sit safely for months at the nursery, where the root balls may be buried in mulch to keep them moist. When the tree is sold, its branches are bound loosely with twine to prevent damage during transport and planting.
In the past, suppliers traditionally used standard burlap
because it's tough, its natural fibers rot in the hole, the soil around
the roots isn't disturbed, and it makes planting easier. Today's "new"
burlap is made from synthetic fibers. It's difficult to detect and doesn't
decay in the soil. Cut away as much as possible from the sides of the
root ball after you've positioned it properly in the hole. Because most
roots grow laterally, this will ensure unobstructed progress. If the ball
is encased in a wire cage, cut it away, too. Then you can get at the burlap
and remove it.
Getting Off to a Good Start
Because the first priority for a newly planted tree or shrub is to establish
and grow roots, use a kelp or mycorrhiza growth product at planting time
to help it get started. Delay spreading granular, slow-acting fertilizer
until the plant indicates its roots are established and functioning by
showing new stem and leaf growth.
Steps 1-5
What You Need:
Shovel or spade
Burlap-wrapped plant
Tarp
Water
Mulch
Stakes (optional)
Tree wrap (optional)
***
Keeping Trees Healthy
A property filled with beautiful trees doesn't take much work. The biggest
challenge may be leaving them alone.
10 Tips
One of the joys of living in the country is being surrounded by big, wonderful
trees. Not only do they add shade and beauty, but they also add greatly
to the value of your property. Replacing even a small tree can run into
the hundreds of dollars. It only makes sense, then, to protect your investment
and nurture trees so they can be appreciated for generations. Here are
10 tips to keeping your trees healthy.
1. Back off. The good news is that, for the most part, trees can fend
for themselves. After all, those centuries-old beauties you see dotting
the countryside didn't get that way with lots of fussing and primping.
"Generally speaking, the trees don't need us to grow," says Dan Green, owner of Woodland Management, an Oregon tree and woodland care service. But there are things you should do to make sure you have the healthiest trees possible. First, leave them alone. A tree's biggest enemy is, well, you. One of the leading causes of the death of mature trees is harm unwittingly done to them by the owner.
"We are the enemy when it comes to trees," says Jim Skiera, associate executive director of the International Society of Arboriculture.
2. Watch where you dig. Construction is probably the biggest killer of mature trees, Skiera says, especially when heavy equipment is involved. Consider the case of a Missouri couple who designed the driveway of their new house around a glorious 200-year-old tree. They laid the driveway and the tree promptly died.
Even if it seems construction is taking place relatively far away from a tree, remember that a root system can extend two to three times farther than the branches. With a mature tree, that means heavy equipment operating even 60 feet away can compact the soil and damage roots, causing the tree to die in a few months or slowly over a period of years.
So whether you're laying a driveway or building a shed, take a moment to talk about protecting the trees with any contractor and specify where heavy equipment can and can't go. It's best to mark off areas around trees during construction. Stake off areas at least 10 feet from the drip line of the tree, that is, as far as the branches of the tree extend.
3. No parking. Avoid parking vehicles under trees. Over the years, the soil becomes compacted and can slowly kill the tree.
4. Whack carefully. Mowers and weed whackers (power string trimmers) can be tree enemies, nicking the bark and weakening the tree, making an ideal entry point for disease.
5. Mulch regularly. It's important to mulch around the base of your trees (with the exception of trees in a woodland situation). Apply a 1- to 4-inch layer of wood chips or shredded bark, pine needles, shredded autumn leaves, cocoa hulls, straw, or other biodegradable mulch. The mulch should start an inch or two from the trunk of the tree, extending as far as the drip line or at least 3 feet away from the base of the trunk. Not only will mulch protect your tree from lawn equipment, but also it will suppress weeds and keep moisture in the soil.
6. Don't overwater or overfertilize. For the most part, a mature tree needs little assistance when it comes to food and water. While trees planted in the last three or four years benefit from additional fertilizing and watering, large trees can actually be damaged by fertilizer and too much water. They can also be damaged by lawn and garden herbicide applications -- another good reason to lay down that big circle of mulch so you're not pouring chemicals into at least part of the tree's roots.
In the arid West, says Green, new homeowners installing sprinkling systems often unwittingly begin watering trees that are used to dry conditions, soaking the soil and depriving them of the oxygen they're used to. This can lead to sick or even dead trees.
7. Trim back on pruning. Benign neglect is also useful when it comes to pruning. Mature trees seldom need much, other than removing dead or damaged branches and trimming off any suckers that shoot up at the base. Thin, crowded growth on mature branches (especially those of fruit trees), called water sprouts, should be regularly trimmed, as should any rubbing or problem branches.
8. Know your trees and your diseases. Even though your trees don't need much from you, it's a good idea to keep a watchful eye over them. Many diseases are specific only to certain species, so to diagnose the problem you'll first need to know the tree. A good reference book can come to the rescue. Check out the bookstore or your local library for a tree identification booklet. Two excellent plant disease manuals are Ortho's Home Gardener's Problem Solver (Ortho Books, 2001) and Plant Health Care for Woody Ornamentals (University of Illinois Press, 1997). Both books include plenty of photos and help you identify the problem and give sound recommendations on resolving it.
9. Walk your property. Walk your property regularly, and take a close look at your trees. Check leaves and branches for any insects or signs of insect activity, dead twigs, mushrooms growing on or around the base of the tree, and odd spots on leaves.
10. Stand back and enjoy. Few things on your property
will give you as much beauty and pleasure for so little labor as your
mature trees. As Skiera says, "For the most part, trees do very well
if you just leave them alone."
Instructions Fro Planting a Tree
Step 1.
1. Examine the tree before you buy it. Reject those with gouges, scrapes,
or wounds on the trunk. Look, too, for girdling roots encircling the base
of the trunk under the burlap wrapping.
Step 2.
2. Spread a tarp for the soil. Dig a hole with sloping sides as deep as
the root ball is high, and at least half greater than the width. Don't
add anything to the hole or soil.
Step 3.
3. Remove any protective outer wrapping, but leave the burlap on to hold
the roots while you position the plant in the hole. Untie the branches
to determine the most pleasing aspect.
Step 4.
4. Cut away as much burlap as you can. Roots grow laterally, so fabric
under the ball can remain. Be sure the top of the root ball -- where the
roots flare out from the trunk -- is at or above ground level.
Step 5.
5. Use the plain loose soil on the tarp to fill in the hole around the
root ball. Water it when the hole is half full to prevent air pockets.
Check the root ball level again and raise if it has sunk.
Step 6.
6. Finish filling the hole and firm the soil. Form a ridge of soil just
beyond the edge of the hole to create a water reservoir. Water slowly
and deeply. Fill the reservoir and let it drain.
7. Spread a 2 to 3-inch layer of organic mulch over the root zone to discourage
weeds and retain soil moisture. Unwrap the branches if they remain tied.
They will take time to regain their normal attitude.
Step 8.
8. Use tree wrap to protect the tender bark on young trees threatened
by rodent and sun damage. Follow the instructions on the package to ensure
proper application.
First Year Tree Care
Newly planted trees are among the biggest landscape investments but also
among the most vulnerable, particularly in winter.
The bigger the tree is when you
buy it, the sooner you'll enjoy
its benefits.
Establishing trees on your lot is an important step, both for aesthetic
reasons and more practical ones, such as lowering your energy bills in
summer and winter. You can keep trees strong and healthy through the winter
and beyond by avoiding some common mistakes.
Want of Water
Lack of water is the biggest threat to young trees. It takes a new tree
up to three years to develop roots to make up for those lost in the transplanting
process. During that time, trees are especially vulnerable to drought,
which leads to branch dieback and stem damage.
To get water directly to the roots, where it's needed the most, make a doughnutlike depression a few inches deep and 2-3 feet from the trunk so water will not run off. Not long ago, a dishlike depressing extending around the tree was considered ideal. But the doughnut works better because it prevents puddling around the trunk, where water could cause rot.
Water deeply-- as much as 5 gallons for a 3- to 4-foot
tree -- during each week that there is less than 1 inch of rainfall. Mulching
will help the tree retain the water and give it extra protection for winter.
For younger and smaller trees, mulch a circle at least 2 feet in diameter
around the base.
Failure to Protect
Wrapping and staking are sometimes required by nurseries if their tree
guarantee is to be honored. Wrapping the lower trunk with tree wrap or
heavy paper will prevent sun scald until the canopy of leaves grows thick
enough to shade the trunk. Wrapping also helps insulate the tree from
the cold.
Staking was, until recently, a rule without exception.
New research, however, has shown that some flex and sway is necessary
for trees to develop strength and resilience- although too much movement
in the wind will keep the roots constantly under stress and prevent them
from settling and spreading. So, use the minimum staking necessary, perhaps
none for small transplants, and take out stakes once they're no longer
needed.
Girdling
Girdling can kill a tree quicker than any other type of injury because
it can entirely cut off the flow of nutrients and water to the branches
farther up the tree. To avoid girdling, remove anything that could bind
around the trunk. Run guy wires through pieces of hose. When possible,
tie branches with soft string or pieces of nylon hose that will stretch
or break before they bind.
As winter progresses keep an eye on young trees. Don't
let the harsh weather keep you from providing necessary care.
Bareroot Trees & Shrubs
Here's the scoop on getting trees and shrubs off to a healthy start
in your landscape.
Mail-Order Trees and Shrubs
Trees and shrubs bought by mail order are often shipped with bare roots
and arrive in late winter while still dormant. Deciduous ones have bare
branches, their leaves having dropped the previous autumn. Evergreens
have their foliage, but they're also in their rest period. All the soil
is washed off their roots, typically wrapped in moist, shredded paper,
moss, or sawdust for shipment. This way, they're easy and relatively
inexpensive to ship. Bareroot plants tend to be very young and therefore
smaller than those sold in containers or balled and burlapped. They're
less expensive, and many more varieties are available through specialty
mail-order sources.
Keep plant roots moist if you'll be delaying planting.
Keep them wrapped and stored in a cool, dark place. Several hours before
planting, unwrap the roots and set the plant in a container of tepid
water so that its roots are immersed. Be careful not to damage the roots.
The tiny root hairs are important because they will spearhead the growth
in the soil. Once planted and watered, bareroot plants need less water
than others until they leaf out. Delay fertilizing until they produce
stems and foliage growth.
Planting Depth
Planting depth is critically important when you plant trees and shrubs.
Regardless of whether they're bareroot, containerized, or balled and
burlapped, don't plant them too deeply. Check often while positioning
them in the hole to assure that the root flare -- where the roots begin
at the base of the stems or trunk -- is visible at or above ground level.
Heeling In
Heeling-in nursery stock.
Sometimes it's impossible to plant bareroot nursery stock promptly.
Heeling it in -- a sort of temporary planting -- assures that the roots
stay moist and protected during the delay. Dig a trench or slot in the
soil or in a pile of leaves, mulch, or compost. Then set the tree or
shrub so its roots lay in it. Cover the roots with soil or compost in
a loose heap and wet it down thoroughly. You can keep plants heeled-in
for up to 3 months.
Steps 1-5
What You Need:
Garden gloves
Shovel or spade
Bare-root plant
Bucket
Water
Mulch
Instructions:
Step 1.
1. Dig a hole that accommodates the roots when you spread them out.
Make it deep enough so the soil mark -- it's probably still visible
on the stem -- ends up level with the soil surface.
Step 2.
2. Unwrap the roots carefully and gently rinse off any sawdust, moss,
or debris so they're bare. Cleanly clip off any dead rootlets, and cut
broken ones back to healthy tissue.
Step 3.
3. Soak the roots in a bucket of tepid water for several hours so they
can take up water. The more hydrated the plant's tissues are, the better
it can handle the planting process.
Step 4.
4. Press loose soil at the bottom of the hole into a cone to support
the root system. Make it high enough so the roots drape freely and the
plant crown is level with the soil surface.
Step 5.
5. Cut away any broken or dead stems. Unless the shipping and planting
instructions specifically tell you to cut away a portion of healthy
top growth, don't prune anything more.
Steps 6-9
Step 6.
6. Set the plant crown -- where the roots join the stem -- over the
soil cone and drape the roots evenly over its sides. Make sure the soil
mark on the stem or trunk is at or above ground level.
7. Fill the hole with the soil removed from digging.
Pour water into the half-filled hole to help reduce air bubbles, settle
the roots in position, and indicate if you need to adjust the depth.
Step 8.
8. Add the remainder of the fill soil up to ground level. Firm it gently
over the root zone to support the plant. Press soil into a ridge to
create a shallow reservoir to hold water.
Step 9.
9. Water again to settle the soil. Mulch with a 2- to 3-inch layer of
chopped leaves or aged wood chips over the root zone. This will discourage
weeds and keep the soil moist. Don't fertilize now.
Stony Creek New York